Holiday Meat
A guide to a stress-free centerpiece
We’ve all been there: You’ve spent weeks thinking, planning, researching, and shopping in anticipation of the holiday season. As the carols play while you stand in line at the butcher shop, numbered ticket in-hand, sweating in your coat and hats (why do they keep the heat so high in this store??), you begin to wonder if agreeing to host was the right choice. But before you abandon your [COVID-tested] family gathering for a tiny isolated cabin upstate, let me help assuage some of the most common holiday meat conundrums, and assist you in making the holiday meal as smooth as the whiskey in your eggnog. First things first:
Where will you buy your meat?
Butcher shops and farmer’s markets are wonderful places to look. Seeking out pasture-raised local meat is a great way to support small farmers during the holiday season and to feel good about the lives of the animals involved. What better way to spread holiday messages of joy and peace than choosing responsibly raised meat? Sourcing from a butcher is also a great way to get your questions answered regarding the size of your roast and the best way to prepare it.
Untrimmed or trimmed?
You may have noticed many stores offer tenderloin untrimmed for a lesser price per-pound. It may seem like a good deal, but on average you’ll end up trimming 1-2 pounds of fat and silver skin off of your roast. Ultimately the trimmed-up tenderloin often ends up costing the same as the untrimmed- and it saves you time and frustration.
Hinged or unhinged?
No, we’re not talking about the in-laws. When purchasing a rib roast you may hear this question. The butcher wants to know if you would like them to cut the bones partially off of the roast (creating a door-like hinge) and then tie them back on. This allows the roast to cook on the bone, but makes carving it exceptionally easier as you won’t have to carve around the bone. We recommend saying yes to this technique.
How much should I buy?
The rule of thumb for boneless roasts is a half pound per person. However, you know your guests better than anyone, and if your holiday table consists of a few college athletes or some picky toddlers, you can adjust accordingly. A 17-year-old you know will be going back for seconds? Count them as two people. Four small children who keep getting distracted by Cocomelon and leaving the table? Count the group as two people.
If you are serving a beef standing rib-roast the general rule is one bone per two people – the same counting tricks apply.
How can I be more cost-effective when buying meat?
This time of year can hit our wallets hard. If budgeting for a $200 roast seems overwhelming on top of the latest gadgets and toys for the little ones, there are ways to spend less and still have a show-stopping meal.
One way to save is by purchasing your roast weeks to a few months in advance and freezing it. Just make sure it is wrapped properly- preferably vacuum sealed and you give it plenty of time to thaw before cooking (take it out 2 days before and let it thaw in your refrigerator). Oftentimes the market price for cuts like leg-of-lamb will be less during off-season, so purchasing in early November may save you some money. If it’s too late to take this approach for the winter holidays, consider planning ahead for upcoming spring holidays like Easter or Passover.
In addition, I want to let you in on a little secret from the butcher community: Nothing says you have to serve a tenderloin or standing rib roast for the holidays. In fact, many of us opt for more interesting or cost-effective options for our own family gatherings. A pasture-raised pork rib roast can be both aesthetically beautiful and absolutely succulent. A top sirloin spoon roast is lean, tender, and incredibly flavorful. If you are feeling ambitious, why not try butterflying a boneless pork-loin and stuffing it with sausage and fresh herbs? The pinwheel effect makes for a beautiful centerpiece and leaving the skin on creates a great textural experience.
How do I time the meat with the constant rotation of sides and appetizers coming out of my oven?
Timing the meal can be hard, especially with a single oven and your Great-Aunt Mary bringing stuffed mushrooms that require specific heating instructions. But, meat can be served at room temperature. Your roast can come out of the oven 45 minutes- 1 hour before it's ready to be served. In fact, we recommend it! Letting your meat rest gives the juices a chance to settle and will result in a much more satisfying eating experience.
How do I talk to my 17 year old nibling who has just become a vegetarian and has chosen to boycott the holiday meal?
Rather than starting a heated debate at the dinner table, we recommend sharing resources about proper sourcing, humane meat, and the environmental impacts of pasture-raised vs conventional meat with meat-offended relatives before or after the meal. You can also tell them that the founder of Meaty and the butcher who wrote this blog were vegetarians before ultimately lobbying for a better way of raising meat!
Sam Masler is a butcher and educator based in Long Branch, NJ. Follow her at @sam.cuts.meat for more meaty content and news about the opening of her new butcher shop, scheduled for Spring 2022.